Bishop Part I

In the end of March, Cortney and I took a trip to Bishop, CA for a week of fun in the sun. We were not let down. Several groups of friends from Seattle, Reno, and Las Vegas all bailed on plans to come down, but it allowed Cortney and I to spend lots of quality time together. During the final two days of our trip, our good friends Joel and Hannah graced us with their company.

Our Campsite AKA Mt. Kellortney-y

We had eight days of good weather, bordering on warm at some points but not too bad, especially after several months of Northwet winter. We spent most of our time in the Buttermilks, with a few days at the Happies and one at the Sads. Neither of us really "got" any good "sends" to report, but we did climb on lots of fun problems. Cortney climbed really well and came heartbreakingly close on several things, but I suppose they will have to wait for next time. I was feeling more than a little weak from so much school-time, so I was sort of forced to lay low and play on a wide variety of fun climbs. I did manage to send Pow Pow at the Sads, which I think is one of the best climbs in Bishop's volcanic areas. Other than that, I flashed the Mandala, downgraded Ambrosia, and put up a new line on the Grandpa Peabody Boulder (which you may have read about). No big deal really, just a standard vacation for me...

Anyhow, here's the first batch of pictures; I'll upload another batch soon.

Cortney on SerengettiHappies Highballin'Name That Climb...Me on a Fun Sads ProblemThe Log Lady (this one is for Drew & Jeanna)

Frankenstein FA

Two weeks ago, Cortney and I were hiking around the woods in Index with our buddy Chris Henson to look for boulders. We found a small cluster in the woods below the Upper Wall, and have been back there several times to clean them... It is a nice area that should yield some quality lines, but at this point we have only established three new lines. The reason for this is that I became obsessed with Frankenstein - the tallest, proudest line of the area.

The Magical Forest of Index

Me Attempting Frankenstein

Frankenstein is an 18-20 foot tall boulder that slightly overhangs a drop-off landing. When I first saw it, I knew that it would be a classic problem, but that it would require a great deal of work. And not just climbing effort - work. Cortney and I built two landing platforms from fallen logs in the area, ripped a 100-pound flake off the start, and spent two whole days excavating the lip and rappel-cleaning the face. The first day I began attempting the climb, I ripped an undercling off from halfway up, went rocketing backwards through the air, and came to an abrupt stop on John Stordahl's (meaty) shoulder over a steep, rocky landing. This is probably hyperbole, but I like to think he saved my life.

Cleaning on A Rope (cue circus music)

After two more days of trying the line, I had figured out a workable sequence for the beginning and was starting to make headway on the blank upper section. The crux of the climb revolves around a sloping right-hand crimp that is the last decent grip before the finishing hold three feet above. This past Sunday, I dangled around and figured out a method that I thought would work, but once I pulled the rope I had only a few goes left and couldn't manage to send it. On Monday afternoon, I took off from school and met Kyle in Index. With five and a half pads and his encouragement, I sent the climb first try of the day. Here are some photos and the video of the FA. I plan on drawing up a topo to the area in a few weeks, but for now it will just remain a little secret between you and I...

Kyle Climbing Igor, A Right Variation on FrankensteinJohnny Stordahl and I On Another Project

As an interesting post-script to my personal first ascent epic, Kyle sent the line second try. That is, in two tries total. After several days of working it, visualizing potential sequences in my head, and lying awake at night imagining it, I had built the climb up in my head as being super-hard. I was prepared to propose the grade of 8C+ for it. But Kyle walked up it like it was one of those cute little walls in a children's playground; it instantly became just another boulder climb that the impending legions of gymbros will effortlessly scamper up. I guess it just goes to show how the process of figuring a climb out can have a huge impact on one's subjective impression of its difficulty. In a larger sense, for me it really highlights the entire subjectivity of the whole bouldering thing, and makes the current internet debates about the "standards" and "solidification" of cutting-edge bouldering grades seem comically shortsighted and artificial. Oh well; at least I had a lot of fun. Best wishes for a beautiful weekend to everyone...

Sky Valley Pics

This winter has been wonderfully dry and warm... there has been a good 'early spring' season in Gold Bar, and lots of people have been making it up the hill despite the length of the hike. There isn't too much to report, but I've taken some nice pics over the last two weeks and thought I'd share them. Enjoy!

Joel Warming Up At Que LunaCole Allen, Unfortunately Still Recovering From FrostbiteCortney Sending Midnight LichenJoel on the Samurai BoulderNice TreesCassie BearMe on the Baby FaderSunset Panorama

Home Wallin'

The winter months here in Washington bring quite a bit of rain. Cortney and I have been lucky enough to get outside somewhat frequently this winter, but there have still been plenty of weekend days spent in the city, doing work for school or hanging out with friends. To temper the madness, we have been climbing on our home wall... I'd like to say we have been training, but my definition of training begins where it stops being fun, and that's when I usually stop climbing.

Isaac Crushing

Our wall isn't the biggest or steepest, but it is nice to be able to climb outdoors, and with no more than a few of your friends. It's also nice to have control over when and how we set the wall (having lots of feet makes me happy). I recently got a fancy Dewalt impact driver, and this past weekend we stripped the entire wall and re-set it. The first time we changed the holds around, it took about an hour; this time it took three or four. I guess we have added a lot of T-nuts and holds! I'm also really out of practice since my days setting at Stone Gardens... I was quite sore, and I didn't move nearly as many holds around as during a four-hour setting shift. I have lots of respect for gym routesetters, it's a job that involves a lot of tough work and not much recognition. Anyhow, here are a few shots of our modest efforts.

BeforeAfter

Cortney CrushingMe Straining

Hope everyone makes it out this weekend, the weather looks perfect.

Index Projex

Cortney and I went to the Sky Valley this weekend for some fun boulderin' action. Saturday's highlight was heading out to the Five Star Boulder, where I managed to send Ebriosity first try of the day. Nice job me! We had a lot of fun hanging out with Isaac, John Stordahl, and others, and climbing on some of the fantastic climbs on the boulder. It was Isaac's first day at the boulder, and he climbed super well, sending Ross Bongo, the Five Star Arete, Kombucha, and doing well on Ground Zero and Ebriosity. Nice job Isaac! Nice job Cortney and John too!

Cortney On The Five Star AreteMe On Ground Zero

We spent Saturday night with some friends in Index, and awoke to the unfortunate sound of rain falling on the roof. After a really slow morning drinking coffee and watching climbing movies, we headed up into the woods surrounding Midnite to look for more boulders with our friend Chris Henson. We spent a ton of time bushwhacking through serious undergrowth, but did uncover some real gems. Many of the boulders we found showed evidence of a wire brush, and some may have even been previously climbed, but there are a few lines that will require lots of landing work. It was really encouraging and I am looking forward to spending time unlocking the sequences these beautiful rocks will offer! Stay tuned for more...

Me On A Fun Climb Just Past Midnite

Projex In The Woods

Ebriosity

Update 2: Now I'm really hooked. I made it out to the Five Star on Friday with Max and Kyle O', and while I made slight progress, I still couldn't put together a send. I think I'll be hiking up the hill to boulder this weekend, but I can't wait to get back to Ebriosity!

Update: I'm hooked. I went out to the Five Star yesterday and made some more progress... hopefully I'll get it next time I go out there. Such a good climb! Here's a video of my best attempt. (Purists will note that I'm not starting on the lowest possible rail, but whatever...)

Cortney and I played hooky from our many responsibilities last Thursday afternoon and headed to the Five Star Boulder for a few hours of bouldering. It had been a long time since I had visited the Five Star, and I was really excited to play on its tall granite faces. The weather was dry and crisp, and the walk felt trivial after walking to the top of the hill a few times during the last couple of months.

The Five Star Boulder

I was really excited to try Ebriosity, the boulder's classic testpiece. The climb ascends a series of sloping rails through a complicated sequence of body-tension moves and a couple powerful right heel hooks. I put a handful of days into the line over a year ago, but smitten with Leavenworth during the summer season, never returned to complete it. While I didn't get the send on Thursday, I was able to re-figure out my sequence and climb the line in two halves... I'm really excited to return and finish this one off! I think it's one of the proudest lines in Washington, and it's a real pleasure to work on such a classic problem so close to home. With good weather and a little luck, I'll be back out there this Thursday to finish it off.

A Few Pics of Me Attempting Ebriosity

Another highlight of the day was spotting Corney on the Five Star Arete. It was her first day of effort on this one, and she was able to get up to the last move. This is probably one of the hardest climbs she has put work into yet, and it is great to watch her progress. Nice job Cortney!

Nice Scenery (For a Clear-Cut)

J-High FNA

This just in: Joel Campbell just did the first post-break ascent of the problem J-High on Gold Bar's Beach Boulder. A certain "shamwow" individual broke the (only) crimp off of this problem several weeks ago, and Joel's in the first known ascent since.

Joel Zerr cruxing on a pre-break J-High. Photo by Brian Sweeney.
(Note Cole Allen's pretty sundress)

Joel reports that the problem is more difficult, but not "crazy hard." However, the problem's movement is much different, requiring a Karma-mirror-image slap to the sloper from the jug and then a really tough hand-foot match. Just another example of the slow but steady evolution of our bouldering here in WA...

I should take this occasion to reiterate that the adjacent landowners do not want people walking through the woods to get directly to the boulder (i.e. do not follow the directions in Central Washington Bouldering). Instead, please enter the woods directly across the street from the parking area, and walk roughly 50 yards east along the riverside to access the Beach Boulder.

Get out there!