Saturday, May 30, 2009

Two Silly Videos

Here are two silly videos of Joel Campbell climbing in Entiat. The first is him doing a huge dyno while smoking one of his trademark Basic cigarettes, and the second is him climbing a jump-start fin with a required 360 to avoid the dab. Enjoy!

Friday, May 29, 2009


Last weekend, all of the west-side monkeys made the trip out to Entiat, a short drive north of Wenatchee, to check out the boulders reputedly found in an Icicle-style canyon. I had heard about Entiat from many different people, most of whom shrugged it off, some of whom indicated there was some potential, and one misguided fool who declared he had just discovered "Leavenworth two." I can't pretend to know anything about Entiat's climbing history, but climbers have been visiting the canyon for many years on their way into the Glacier Peak Wilderness, and the area is even written up in Tim Toula's treatise Rock and Road as having some fun top-ropes on large boulders.
Cortney on a Classic Overhang
Me on a Fun Slab - Taller than the Sword?
Joel Crushing
While the analogy to Leavenworth is sorely lacking, the canyon is gorgeous and it was really fun to climb on problems that were all new to us. Cortney and I spent most of Saturday climbing lots of clean but chalkless moderate highballs in the "main area," before Joel, Jeff, Johnny, Dimitry, Cole, Cassie, and Tucker showed up.
Camping Time
Where are the Boulders Cole?
On Sunday morning, we checked out some new boulders above the road and everyone set to work brushing. Later in the day, Garrett Grove, Art Lim, and two of their buddies showed up and joined in the fun. Garrett is a photographer writing an article about Washington bouldering and had wanted to take photos of us cleaning and putting up new problems. I'm glad we didn't disappoint him. We spent the rest of Sunday climbing at this area and put up several fun climbs.
Joel, Garrett, and Art (trusting Garrett immensely)
Me on a New Problem
Cortney on a New Problem and a Project

Our group was a little smaller on Monday, and we went back to the main area to climb some more and work on some dirty/undone lines we had spied. All in all, I was really excited to check out yet another nice area on the fringe of Washington's Cascades, and I think everyone had a blast. The rock and setting in Entiat is similar to some North Cascade areas, but the drive is only 45 minutes further than Leavenworth. While we didn't see a huge abundance of rock, all of the climbs we did were new to us, an experience we don't get that often in Leavenworth or Gold Bar these days. It was quite the refreshing experience to have on the last weekend before my exam "crunch time" begins. I'm looking forward to soon finishing my first year of law school, and to all of the climbing adventures to be had this summer...

Jeff on a New Slab
Joel on a New Climb
Art Flying Off The New Climb
Cortney and Joel on a Fun Overhang

More Gold Bar Info

It has just come to my attention that the gate at Gold Bar can be easily circumvented via a small dirt road just before the turn... I'm not sure if it is permissible to use this entrance, but the abundance of ORVs and other vehicles using the road seems to indicate that it is probably all right for now.

Also, I have learned recently that the Access Fund, fresh off of a victory in securing access to the Index Lower Town Wall, has discussed the option of working with the DNR to secure the Reiter Foothills area for non-motorized use only. This seems to be a real possibility, which is exceptionally encouraging. I'll update this site with any more concrete information that I receive.

I hope everyone's been enjoying this beautiful weather...

Thursday, May 21, 2009

Gold Bar Update

I am sad to report that the gate to the Gold Bar road has been locked at Reiter Road for roughly a week. Apparently, the Department of Natural Resources has decided to rework the usage plan for the area to try and combat the environmental damage, unauthorized trail building, garbage dumping, vandalism, and illegal firearm use that anyone who has climbed in Gold Bar is familiar with. The new plan will have provisions listing the permissible uses of the Reiter Foothills area, as well as provide for increased law enforcement efforts. More information can be found on the DNR site here.

While it is very disheartening to see the gate closed, it is a positive thing that the DNR is finally considering these important issues. It is still unlikely that the road will be re-graded anytime soon. However, any use restrictions on the area will probably work to the detriment of ORV users, and be an indirect boon for climbers. I would personally not mind walking up the hill if it meant that we'd never again see drunken yahoos trying to drive rockcrawlers through the clearcut. However, climbers have little visibility and we need to make sure that the DNR is made fully aware of our presence in the area.

For now, you can contribute to our cause by taking this survey that the DNR is using to gauge recreation interests in the area. If you are feeling especially eloquent and impassioned, you can also contact the DNR directly and voice your concern. Phone numbers can be found in the article linked above.

I would like to reiterate my sentiment in Central Washington Bouldering that our privilege to climb in Gold Bar depends on our continued respect, cooperation, and flexibility in dealing with the DNR and Manke Timber. Thanks for your concern - and take the survey!

Tuesday, May 19, 2009


Here's me doing the FA of the Grandview arete in Upper Icicle Canyon. Enjoy!

Monday, May 18, 2009

Buena Vista Video

I had the pleasure of visiting a new boulder in Leavenworth this weekend, thanks to a tip from Leavenworther Scott Mitchell. Located well past the rest of the established bouldering in Icicle Canyon, the Grandview boulder is a long way up the hill and only offers four or five problems. Fortunately, we're into that sort of thing, and we had a blast scrubbing, prying, and climbing on new problems despite the heat.

Here's a video of Drew doing the FA of Buena Vista. Enjoy!

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Cotton Pony Low Video

Here's a link to an older video that Joel Zerr made of Joel Campbell climbing the Cotton Pony Low in Leavenworth. Sick!!!

Thursday, May 7, 2009

Index Pictures

Here are some pictures from the last two weeks in Index. I am really happy that we found some boulders in the woods, producing some more quality problems close to Seattle, and giving hope for the future of exploration below the Upper Town Wall. I am personally really, really excited about Midnite, and hope that I'll climb this five-star line soon. Here are the pics!

The Before Photo
Me on Midnite
Joel on Great Zimbabwe Walls
Kyle on GZW
Me on Banking in the Pig
Kyle Crushing
Me on Bushman
Pretty Pictures

Happy Joel

Wednesday, May 6, 2009

Frog Low Video

Here's a short video I made of Joel Campbell climbing the Frog Low in Index. Note the mid-climb wardrobe change - impressive!