Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Two New LW Problems

Here is a short video showing Drew Schick and I putting up two new problems at the Domestic Boulders in Icicle Canyon. Yes, we both decided to continue the nomenclature started with Kyle O'Meara's "Bootin' Dookie," Drew naming his problem Coprophobia, and me naming mine La Poocoupe. I named my problem as I did in metonymic reference to a legendary Swiss problem, because it's just, well, a crappier version, and there was a ton of mouse poop on the (yes, detached) start holds...

It has been awesome to start the season by climbing on mostly brand-new problems, and to see that Leavenworth still has so much more to offer. Happy climbing everyone!*

One note on the screaming: La Poocoupe is not a "Hard Problem," and is of questionable quality, but its mantle is really probably one of the hardest I have ever done. The only others I can think of are Loose Change in Squamish, Boulder X in Pawtuckaway (which I'm not even positive I ever sent...), and the obscure Behemoth near Hanover, NH - and La Poocoupe's is much harder. Note this photo:

The mantle involves creating enough torque between the left-hand sloper I have and the two-finger quarter-pad seam undercling circled in red to rock your entire body over the lip... the holds are about 8 inches apart, both are terrible, and the roof is completely undercut, so I found myself literally stuck, doing everything I could think of, and envisioning no other means of rocking over than simply screaming as loud as I could and willing it to happen. It felt really good to try hard. The mantle will probably get a lot easier as it sees rain and traffic though... As Bobby Hardage would say, "V3+."


*Yes, a "feel-good bromide," as our logorrheic community college professor would say, but an authentic one...

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